New Orleans rewards two kinds of looking, and one ticket covers both. The open-top double-decker handles the wide view, running eighteen stops across Bourbon Street, the French Quarter, Frenchmen Street, the Garden District, and the Superdome, with a guide narrating three centuries of history from the deck above. Buses come through often enough that hopping off wherever something catches you costs nothing extra. JAMNOLA is the other kind of looking. Twenty-plus exhibits built by more than a hundred local artists turn the city's joy, art, and music into rooms you walk through rather than scenes you pass, and the 3D glasses that come with it push the whole thing further. One ticket shows you the city. The other shows you what the city thinks of itself.